Slow Riding Steps for Success
Below outlines a multi-step approach to maneuvering slowly in tight spaces. It starts with riding slowly in a straight line; then learning to balance the clutch, throttle, and rear brake; finding “full lock” turning the handlebar; and finally leaning the bike into the turn while shifting your weight to the outside.
1). Straight and Steady
Start by riding slowly in a straight line, with your head and eyes looking forward (not down at your front tire). Looking down or to your left or right too much can destabilize your head, and that’s going to disrupt what you’re trying to do.
Practice keeping a steady throttle while feathering the clutch and rear brake to keep moving forward at a slow, steady pace. A light touch on the rear brake is key. Try using just your big toe to press the rear brake - just barely touching it.
Once you become proficient at riding slowly in a straight line, without having to “row” on the handlebar or put your feet down, then you’re ready to start turning.
2). Ready, Set, Lock
The next step is riding slowly while turning the bike with the handlebar in the “full lock” position – that is, turned to the left or right as far as the bar will go. The concept of “counter steering” (turning the bar in the opposite direction to initiate a turn) doesn’t apply when you’re traveling below 5-7 mph.
In this case, it’s direct steering so you’re actually going to turn the handlebar in the direction you want to go, just as you would a steering wheel on a car.
The point of this exercise is to get a feel for how far the handlebar will turn and what the limits are in that regard. Maintain a steady speed. If you feel like the bike is going to tip, release the rear brake, ride out of it, and start over.
3). A Human Counterweight
Finally, to decrease your turning radius as much as possible, you’ll have to lean the bike as far as you can. That requires using your body as a “counterweight” through the turn.
At higher speeds, your body naturally leans into the turn with the bike. If you’re doing it properly, your torso essentially stays in line with the frame of the bike. It happens by itself, and you don’t have to think about it too much. At low speeds, the leaning is more deliberate.
Turning the handlebar all the way to one side will result in a smaller turning radius, but the smallest one is when you lean the motorcycle all the way over, as well. If you’ve ever seen a motor officer do this, you’ll see that the motorcycle’s leaned over until the footboard nearly skims the ground, but the rider is leaned away.
For smaller riders, effective counterweighting might require shifting your weight on the seat and moving your butt around a little bit. For most people, however, it may only require keeping your body vertical (to the ground) as the bike moves back and forth beneath you through the turns. This is how Smith approaches those tight turns in competition.
“I don’t move a bit,” he says. “I get myself positioned, and then I don’t want to move around. You want to keep your body set straight up, like a two-by-four almost, and then let the bike work under you.”
Practice Riding Slowly
Taking a course is the best way to learn these skills and become a better rider in close quarters. But whether you take a class or teach yourself, diligent practice is the real key to improving.
An empty parking lot is ideal. If you learn the width of the parking spaces you don’t even have to set up any cones. Most spaces are eight or nine feet wide, so two together make a good target width for a tight U-turn.
Because it can be both mentally and physically draining, it’s best to practice in short stretches, maybe 20 minutes at a time. And take little breaks now and then, both to let your bike cool down and to relax your body. Shake out your hands. Take a few deep breaths. Let your pulse get closer to normal.
Below outlines a multi-step approach to maneuvering slowly in tight spaces. It starts with riding slowly in a straight line; then learning to balance the clutch, throttle, and rear brake; finding “full lock” turning the handlebar; and finally leaning the bike into the turn while shifting your weight to the outside.
1). Straight and Steady
Start by riding slowly in a straight line, with your head and eyes looking forward (not down at your front tire). Looking down or to your left or right too much can destabilize your head, and that’s going to disrupt what you’re trying to do.
Practice keeping a steady throttle while feathering the clutch and rear brake to keep moving forward at a slow, steady pace. A light touch on the rear brake is key. Try using just your big toe to press the rear brake - just barely touching it.
Once you become proficient at riding slowly in a straight line, without having to “row” on the handlebar or put your feet down, then you’re ready to start turning.
2). Ready, Set, Lock
The next step is riding slowly while turning the bike with the handlebar in the “full lock” position – that is, turned to the left or right as far as the bar will go. The concept of “counter steering” (turning the bar in the opposite direction to initiate a turn) doesn’t apply when you’re traveling below 5-7 mph.
In this case, it’s direct steering so you’re actually going to turn the handlebar in the direction you want to go, just as you would a steering wheel on a car.
The point of this exercise is to get a feel for how far the handlebar will turn and what the limits are in that regard. Maintain a steady speed. If you feel like the bike is going to tip, release the rear brake, ride out of it, and start over.
3). A Human Counterweight
Finally, to decrease your turning radius as much as possible, you’ll have to lean the bike as far as you can. That requires using your body as a “counterweight” through the turn.
At higher speeds, your body naturally leans into the turn with the bike. If you’re doing it properly, your torso essentially stays in line with the frame of the bike. It happens by itself, and you don’t have to think about it too much. At low speeds, the leaning is more deliberate.
Turning the handlebar all the way to one side will result in a smaller turning radius, but the smallest one is when you lean the motorcycle all the way over, as well. If you’ve ever seen a motor officer do this, you’ll see that the motorcycle’s leaned over until the footboard nearly skims the ground, but the rider is leaned away.
For smaller riders, effective counterweighting might require shifting your weight on the seat and moving your butt around a little bit. For most people, however, it may only require keeping your body vertical (to the ground) as the bike moves back and forth beneath you through the turns. This is how Smith approaches those tight turns in competition.
“I don’t move a bit,” he says. “I get myself positioned, and then I don’t want to move around. You want to keep your body set straight up, like a two-by-four almost, and then let the bike work under you.”
Practice Riding Slowly
Taking a course is the best way to learn these skills and become a better rider in close quarters. But whether you take a class or teach yourself, diligent practice is the real key to improving.
An empty parking lot is ideal. If you learn the width of the parking spaces you don’t even have to set up any cones. Most spaces are eight or nine feet wide, so two together make a good target width for a tight U-turn.
Because it can be both mentally and physically draining, it’s best to practice in short stretches, maybe 20 minutes at a time. And take little breaks now and then, both to let your bike cool down and to relax your body. Shake out your hands. Take a few deep breaths. Let your pulse get closer to normal.
